An extra place, just in case.
Sunday lunch was rarely a formal occasion. Eleanor put a bowl of peaches on the table, found another chair when someone arrived, and asked how the week had been. The food mattered, but so did the chance to sit together for a while.
Her recipe cards collected little changes over the years. A crossed-out measurement. An ingredient added in the margin. She cooked by looking and tasting, which made her daughter's attempts to write everything down a patient collaboration.
The family remembers the extra place settings as much as any particular dish. There was room to arrive with a story, a difficult week, or nothing much to say.